MY VEGAN SAFARI IN THE BOTSWANA BUSH

CAPTIVATING STORIES AND EVERYDAY ADVENTURES ON SAFARI

I've visited some places that feel like a distant dream. With golden sunsets, vast skies, aromatic bush, and abundant space... Botswana is definitely one of them. Rich in wildlife from dedicated conservation and ecotourism, Botswana has solidly secured its spot as one of my favorite places to visit within Africa.

The African jacana traverses fairytale carpets of waterlilies | A Southern yellow-billed hornbill | Curious zebra foal

On Christmas Eve, my mother and I took a flight from Seattle to Cape Town via Paris. Despite the 20+ hour travel time, I felt anticipation and excitement wash over me as our flight descended into Cape Town. Six years ago, I lived in South Africa and felt the country was home. I wasn't sure what emotions and memories would surface with my return.

The next morning, we woke up to a stunning view of Table Mountain and blue skies. After a few days of exploring the city and adjusting to the 10 hour time difference, we met with the trip organizers and fellow travelers to begin our adventure to Botswana. Located directly north of South Africa, Botswana is highly protected with limited tourism to preserve the country's natural wonders and to ensure minimal human impact.

The striking coast of Cape Town from our private catamaran | An early morning yawn from a fierce lioness

The next morning, we had to catch an early morning flight to Maun, Botswana. From Maun, we boarded two bush planes to fly into the heart of Chobe National Park, where our first camp was waiting. The bush, or baby planes, could hold around ten people and offered a clear birds eye view of the landscape below. Peering down from the plane, I saw miles of vegetation, lands shaped by rivers, and paths created by elephants. Nature as it should be.

Aerial view of Botswana's untamed wilderness | Gazing up at the giant baobab tree | A colorful plant-based meal

When we exited the bush plane, the first thing I noticed was the weather and climate. It was scorching hot and desert dry. Just a few days prior I had been in winter, so it was shocking to feel the summer heat on my face. We immediately hopped into our open air safari vehicles and began our very first game drive as we headed to our lodge, Camp Savute. The guides said we may see animals on the way and before long we spotted giraffes and elephants in the distance. Nothing will prepare you for the joy and amazement you feel at seeing animals in the wild. As we stopped to observe the animals up close, they stared back at us with gentle, curious eyes - as if welcoming us into their world.

A nursery of impala fawns stop for a portrait | The afterglow of the wet season as far as the eye can see

We had a routine. Every morning, my eyes opened at 4:45, and I would stumble in the dark to pull on my earth tone clothing and pack my camera. We woke up early to chase the light. Our guide, Issac, is our wake up call, shouting "good morning" from just outside our thatched chalets. A few minutes later he returns to escort us to the lodge for breakfast. After a quick bite of muffins, fruit, cereal, donuts, and juice, we set out into the lightening sky.

The morning air was crisp in the back of the cruiser and smelled of wild sage plants that covered the bush. As the vehicle picked up speed, my eyes scanned the landscape, hoping to capture every movement and pick up every sound.

A proud and exaggerated yawn | Giraffes quenching their thirst on a sweltering day | The inquisitive African Buffalo

Our first stop was the pride of lions, who are active in the early hours. In the golden light, we saw two lioness nuzzling each other and heard their chilling roars fill the air. A huge male walked right by the side of my vehicle. I could have reached out and touched his mane.

Our guides assured us the animals are very used to the sight of safari vehicles and perceive the whole cruiser as one large creature. However, when a lion walked within arm distance, I nonetheless found myself holding my breath and staying very still.

A moment of tranquility in the early morning plains | The mighty hippopotamus finds respite from the midday sun

Next, Isaac took us to an open plain where cheetahs had been spotted. As we drove along, we found ourselves surrounded by colorful Southern Carmine Bee-eaters. Agile and acrobatic in the air, these small birds would catch the insects that were displaced from our vehicle. It was an absolutely magical moment to experience.

As the day heated up, the watering hole was a great place to spot animals. We patiently waited for a shy family of giraffes to quench their thirst. After cautiously surveying their surroundings, the giraffes all slowly spread their legs and lowered their long necks to drink. This awkward stance renders them virtually helpless if attacked by lions. We also spotted two jackals, a family of bat-eared foxes, a mother and baby mongoose, a giant eagle owl, and two cheetah brothers.

A Southern Carmine Bee-eater perches on a log | Refreshing bush tea | The abundant wildlife of the Savute region

Eventually we stopped under a shade tree to stretch our legs and enjoy some coffee, tea, and peanut butter cookies outside of the vehicle. All of a sudden, a large bull elephant emerged from the trees and made his way to the watering hole in front of us. Our guides explained the elephant was in musth and had six times the normal testosterone, making him more aggressive.

By late morning, we journeyed back to camp to enjoy a large brunch of curry, casseroles, vegetables, salad, and cheese. During the heat of the day we retire to our rooms to rest, just like the animals. I usually spent the siesta journaling, napping, attending a photography lecture, or taking a dip in the pool that overlooks the watering hole. In the late afternoon, we meet again for high tea accompanied with a fruit cake and savory treat before leaving for our evening safari.

Towering giraffes survey their surroundings | Pool with a view | An ostrich against a background of green

At sunset, our vehicle parked by a picturesque watering hole for sundowners. The staff had set up a full bar of drinks and snacks in the middle of the bush. As the colors painted the sky, we yelled "pula," the Setswana word for cheers. Just then, a large herd of elephants approached us, drinking and playing in the water. Standing next to them, as opposed to being in a vehicle, I could truly appreciate their size and grandeur. As the orange sun sank below the horizon, I had an incredible feeling of intimacy and closeness, a oneness with the environment. It was one of my favorite memories of the trip.

Eventually the elephants left the watering hole and walked past us. One elephant thought we were too close and started stomping his feet and flapping his ears, a sign of aggression. Immediately one of the guides started a cruiser and used it to block us from the herd. Gradually, they moved on, their silhouettes shrinking into the darkening landscape.

A mother and her week old calf splash in the water | Sundowners | A jackal rejoicing the wet-season colors

At dinner we ate under the candlelight on long wooden tables. The elephants always joined us, loudly trumpeting, rumbling, and roaring into the warm night. The guides would joke that we had entered jurassic world. Eventually the chefs announced dinner and explained the three courses they had prepared for us: complete with freshly baked bread, a light appetizer, full buffet, and a decadent dessert. The South African wine was flowing all night.

Upon spying us, a shy Nile crocodile instinctively bolts for the water | A zebra stops for a portrait | Fully vegan food

The next morning I awoke to news that a leopard had entered our camp during the night. Unlike other cats, leopards will climb trees to stash their kills out of reach from hyenas and other scavengers. Strong and stocky, they have no problem maneuvering the fence that surrounds our camp to patrol their territory. Leopards are extremely illusive animals and as one guide put it, "Are only seen when they want to be." It is for this reason the guides escort us when it is dark.

Instead of driving back to the lodge after our morning game drive, our guides surprised us with brunch in the bush. Pulling up to a large shade tree with sprawling branches, we were greeted with a traditional song and a beautifully decorated table. It was one of the most memorable meal locations I have ever had and the food was delicious.

A yellow mongoose carrying her newborn baby | Leopard tracks inside our camp | Brunch in the bush

During our evening game drive, Isaac heard a message from his radio and told us to hold on. We had no idea what was going on, but we could tell he was excited. With the wind whipping through my hair, we flew through the bush, adrenaline pumping, until we spotted two fluffy white tails. African Wild Dogs! The wild, or painted, dogs had disappeared into the bush and we spent the next half hour searching for them. When we finally found the pack, I started to get emotional. As an endangered species, the wild dogs hunt in packs - often referred to as the wolves of Africa - and rarely stay in the same place for more than a few days at a time. Seeing them with my own eyes in the wild was an experience I was fortunate to have and one I will never forget.

A pack of African Wild Dogs on the hunt | A tranquil evening at the lodge | The most powerful African predator

After the painted wolves high, we decided to skip sundowners and instead observe the majestic lions at sunset. We saw a beautiful male strut across the grassy plain during golden hour. He walked as a king, fully aware he was at the top of the food chain.

At dinner that evening we had our farewell to Camp Savute with songs, dance, food, drinks, and toasts. One of the staff grabbed my hand and we danced together center stage as everyone else clapped and swayed. At night, our professional photographer, Jennifer, set up her camera and captured a time lapse of the elephants at the watering hole. When we looked at the footage the next day, we saw migrations of hundreds of elephants coming and going throughout the night. What a special place.

A herd of elephants traverse a delicate sunset | The sleek and athletic African Wild Dog | Exquisite table setting

On our last game drive in Savute, I chose to go with one of my favorite guides, KT, who has been a guide for thirteen years. Riding with the most experienced guide has its benefits, as we were the only group to discover spotted hyenas that morning - thanks to KT's excellent tracking. From the exhilarating game drive, KT drove us straight to the airstrip where two bush planes were to take our group to the next camp. Savute was an incredible area, but it was time to go to the Okavango Delta!

The first plane landed and half of the group went off. We waited for the next plane, but it never came. It was the hottest part of the day, so we all sought refuge in the shade. After awhile the guides informed us that the plane was not coming due to bad weather. At this time our group was separated. We were hot, hungry, and a storm was rolling in. Since the other plane was not coming, they made the first plane fly back and pick us up. It was going to be another hour, so we decided to go on a game drive to pass the time and cool us off.

Loading our bush plane | A yellow mongoose keeps an eye out for predators | Our land cruiser captures a moment

We had not been to the lodge since 6:00 in the morning and it was 2:00 in the afternoon. I went to the bathroom in the bush four times that day! KT would first exit the vehicle and check if there were any animals around before we went behind a nearby bush and relieved ourselves. When we were in an unsafe area, we had to squat directly behind the back of the cruiser. Since it was so hot, we didn't see a lot of animals, but we chatted and laughed the time away.

A lion locks eyes with the camera while following a familiar path | Mother daughter trip | Dancing waterlilies

Eventually the first plane landed again and we climbed in. Jennifer, our professional photographer and my mom, Sharon have a fear of flying and asked to sit in the front. With the storm swiftly approaching, Jennifer asked the pilots, "Is it safe to fly?" and they replied with a reassuring "Yes." As we take off, a gray sheet of rain driven by wind blasts our little plane. It was scary. Jennifer puts her head in between her legs and starts crying. My mom, sitting next to her, sees this and also starts crying, absolutely terrified. I was sitting behind my mom, so I put my hand on her shoulder and she squeezed it so hard that after awhile I started to lose feeling.

In our little bush plane, we out run the storm, leaving the darkening sky behind us. The flight to the Okavango region was absolutely beautiful. Looking out my window, I saw elephants drinking at the waterholes that dotted the lush, green landscape below. Half an hour later, we landed on a grass airstrip in the Okavango Delta to thunderous applause. We also decided that putting the people with a fear of flying next to each other was not a good idea!

Our talented pilots | The marvelous Okavango Delta from above | A relaxing mokoro ride through the river

Botswana’s magnificent Okavango Delta is the world’s largest inland delta (river doesn't empty into an ocean) and is a maze of deep lagoons, large lakes and hidden, meandering channels that weave complex patterns through a flattened landscape. Our second lodge, Camp Okavango, is situated on the remote Nxaragha Island where our activities are only water-based boat and walking safaris.

Camp Okavango is built on stilts to preserve the indigenous plants and animals beneath. Sweeping walkways lead to decks with open-air fire pits, a swimming pool, and comfortable seating areas to relax and take in the natural surroundings. The rooms were luxurious and spacious, with open screen windows and doors that captured the very essence of the world's greatest river delta.

Our luxurious accommodation | The meandering walkways of our camp | A malachite kingfisher rests momentarily

The first morning we did a walking safari. We took a boat to an island and started on foot. In our small group, we had guides in the front and back while we walked in a single file line. In this way, we appeared as a long single animal as opposed to a jumbled herd. The guide in the front always carried a rifle for protection. Thankfully, he had never had to use in 16 years, as the guides are excellent at reading the animal's behavior.

As we hiked, we saw impala, giraffes, monitor lizards, termite mounds, and lots of tracks. Approaching animals on foot is a completely different experience. Normally very skittish, a family of warthogs let us get very close and even smiled for the camera. Since it was the rainy season and food and water were plentiful all over Southern Africa, a lot of the animals that normally flock to the delta were elsewhere. Despite this, I throughly enjoyed the connection to the land and exercise the walking safaris allowed me to experience.

An impala herd amongst ancient termite mounds | An elephant takes a leisurely bath | Slade, our walking safari guide

In the evening, we did a traditional canoe ride called the mokoro. My mom and I shared a mokoro and we cruised down a very shallow part of the delta while a guide navigated with a long pole. We did not want to run into any hippos or crocodiles in our little boat, so we stayed in the shallows.

The river was lined with golden papyrus that danced in the wind and purple water lilies that bobbed up and down with each ripple. As the sun went down, we glided up to guides who had set up a bar in the middle of the channel. We stood in the tranquil water and enjoyed drinks and snacks in the Okavango. It was paradise, and in that moment all I wanted was for time to stop.

Savoring the age-old mokoro | New Years Eve sundowners | An early morning encounter with a friendly warthog

The next morning we did a boat safari, following the river as it snaked across the land until we arrived at a pod of hippos. It was my first time seeing hippos in the wild and I excitedly watched them splash and wade in the water. Hippos have very sensitive skin, so they spend all day in the water to protect it from the sun. At night, they come onto land to feed and sleep. As one of the world's most dangerous animals, we kept our distance and enjoyed these incredible beings in their natural environment.

Hippos yawn when threatened to show off their huge teeth | Three jovial jackal pups at play before mealtime

After a wonderful hippo experience, we left the pod and spotted a large Nile crocodile basking in the sun. Witnessing these dinosaur-like animals in the wild was an absolute delight for me. Gazing from our boat, the giant crocodile opened up his jaws to reveal sharp, pointed teeth. Slade, our guide, told us they open their mouths to release body heat and that they can live to an astonishing 130 years old.

The Okavango Delta is a birders paradise. Everyday we spotted different varieties of kingfishers. Like their name suggests, kingfishers are experts at catching small fish. We watched as the colorful birds perched on reeds over the Okavango Delta and flew down into the water to catch their prey. My favorite birds are the Malachite kingfishers, Southern yellow-billed hornbills, African jacana, Southern carmine bee-eaters, and Lilac-breasted rollers.

A pod of hippos on the move | A giant Nile crocodile displays his teeth | The Malachite Kingfisher studies the water

On our last night in Botswana, we had sundowners by the fire pits and enjoyed the view, conversations, and food. The camp staff and guides were some of the kindest, hardest-working, and knowledgable people I have ever met. Before sunrise, the staff was up sweeping the floors, cooking our meals, and hand-washing our laundry. Upon our return to camp, they greeted us with refreshing towels as soon as we disembarked from the safari vehicles.

The guides were able to steer the vehicle and spot animals at the same time, know predators were close by bird calls, and identify hundreds of animals and plants. I remember one night when I was being escorted to dinner, Issac pointed out planets and constellations in the sky. I was extremely privileged to learn so much from them on our game drives.

A hippo basks in the glow of the late sunlight | The shy Sitatunga is an aquatic antelope | Joy in the Okavango Delta

Right before boarding our plane to leave Botswana, the camp staff shook all our hands and thanked us for our visit. I thanked them in return, for everything they taught us and allowed us to experience. As the plane took off, I looked out my window and laughed at the guides racing us in their land cruisers. But as we pulled ahead and soared through the air, I felt deeply sad to leave such a magical place behind. I will really miss the beautiful country of Botswana and their extraordinary wildlife, kind people, and stunning nature.

A cheetah camouflaged deep within the bush | Enjoying our final evening in Botswana | Male impala play fighting

This trip was not just a vacation. It was an open classroom. To learn about animals in their habitat and to remind ourselves that as humans we are not separate, but deeply apart of nature. It is up to us to protect and conserve these precious wildlife for future generations and the health of our planet.

I was elated to share these life-changing experiences with my mother. I will remember them for the rest of my life. Sometimes when I close my eyes at night when I am lying in bed, I find myself transported right back to Botswana... in the wild.

The quintessential African landscape | Under an orange sky, two elephants wander contentedly off into the distance

Until next time, Botswana. Pula!